On a noon day in February 2022, this was my second visit in 9 years and 2 months. In addition to the excellent impressions from my previous visit, Mr. Murayama, who had his training experience at the Italian restaurant Lace in Meilo (which closed its doors in August 2022 due to the COVID-19 pandemic), made this visit even more meaningful.
■総評
The chef is Mr. Taniwa Yoshimi. A formidable craftsman with a dignified aura. He is truly a master in the art of cooking. Known for his strict guidance of his apprentices. However, after more than nine years, Mr. Taniwa has become surprisingly gentle. Meanwhile, his culinary prowess remains unmatched.
Particularly impressive was the bowl. The kombu broth was excellent. Just this bowl alone makes the visit worthwhile. If you are planning to visit Kyoto to understand the essence of Japanese cuisine, this is highly recommended. Among the highly rated "Japanese cuisine" restaurants on Yastlog in Kyoto, or those that have received stars of 5 on Michelin, there isn’t a single place that offers more orthodox Japanese cuisine at prices ranging from 10,000 yen onwards. Therefore, this restaurant stands out as an example of authentic Japanese cuisine.
■Received Items & Taste
The husband has a deep appreciation for tea and flowers. The taste is clear and delicate, with a focus on specific details in the cooking. The dishes and presentation are beautiful, embodying elegance, beauty, and finesse.
(アルコール)
・Fū no Mori – Junmii Daizen 2 kan
It's clear – extremely delicious.
(Course)
Since this is written based on memories without any photographs, please forgive any errors that may exist.
・自家製甘酒（生姜入り）
・酒のご挨拶
・エビの豆
Bean & Sugeibi & Tsumugi from Kyushu
・Cooked fish (Lake Biwa) with sticky sauce
・羽二重蒸し おくらのすり流し
Fragrance of loquat
・Among the apples produced in Aomori, there is a vinegar made from apple cider.
The red and white dashi soup used in this dish
・ウチナ
The item that left the deepest impression on me that day
Crab, donko, tree buds
The clear kombu broth is truly delightful.
・制作
Nagasaki's sword-tipped eel, Okose, Mokudai Oryx
Fish, fishlets
The octopus, along with seaweed and ivy leaves
White fish is eaten with chiri-asa.
・マス「恵のトロ」
・Me Kabu Acide
・Large Taro Grilled Sushi & Potato Wraps
・いなり＆千枚漬
・Rakuda-dara and Toyofunabira’s fried taro dish
・Shirumatsu Kyoto Soy Sauce Grilled Dishes
・Fried rice and condiments
・柿のシャーベット、和歌山みかん、金柑とブランデー
・Amao, Hōdžiki, Blueberry
・Dried persimmons, white filling, walnuts, sesame
・お薄
・Kyoto-cha
■รายละเอียดการชำระเงิน
・Fū no Mori 1,700 yen × 2 portions
・Côte 17,000 yen
・サービス料10％：2,040円
Tax: 22,440 yen
＜Visiting Records＞
■Date & Time
・February 13, 2022, 12:00
・Stayed for 2 hours and 40 minutes
■レストランの構造
・カウンター5席＋個室
・One customer will be directed to the counter inevitably.
・Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, the counter at the restaurant...
The customer is from Kyoto and currently lives in Tokyo.
Based in Kyoto, a woman (for work purposes)
Just two people, during their stay of several months.
■Location
・Near the Shigamo Shrine
・Easy to walk within walking distance from Chūmachi Yanagi Station
・For those who are on a trip, taxis can be picked up from Imaoka-cho.
Perhaps the balance between cost and time is the most optimal.
■レストランの現状
・The bowls and other serving utensils are prepared by the owner himself at the counter.
・時間が経つにつれて、その夫は驚くほど穏やかな人になっていった。
・適度な緊張感があり、過度にピリピリすることはない
・独立から半世紀余り、吉泉として40年の歴史を刻んでいる
・The conversation became lively, and they gave me a set of two DVDs.
■トイレ
・Entrance, left side of the building
・Each individual room is equipped with a male toilet and a Western-style toilet seat
・TOTO製
・Hand Soap (Alboos's Care Mild)
Hand Sanitizer (Albonase)
Prepare paper towels.
(August 8, 2023)
평가 평균 4.16
145 reviews available. 3.95
My Reviewer: 13 reviews. Rating: 4.29
Visit on December 15, 2012, at 11:55. The reason I came to this restaurant was because I had seen on TV earlier how the master chef was strict in training his apprentices. His guidance was tough, but it also reflected the master's love for his apprentices—he wanted them to grow quickly so that they could rely solely on their own skills to make a living. I had been thinking about visiting this restaurant ever since. I made a reservation on December 6. This is my first visit.
■Received Items & Flavor
Since it's a memory-based system, there may be some unclear parts. Please bear this in mind.
truly artistic and beautiful items.
The flavor is clear and delicate, with a refined taste that hits exactly the right spot.
The dishes and their presentation are beautiful; they embody all the qualities of elegance, beauty, and delicacy.
The overall flow and the way it was put together are simply incredible.
・香煎茶
・酒を贈ります
Cold wine is once again delicious.
・Matsutake crab
Creamy vinegar contains a substance that is solidified with miso.
・La Française and pomegranate-flavored
White Wine Jelly
In appearance, texture, and taste, it is outstanding.
・O-Watari
Eggplant and Shiitake Mushrooms
Experience the clear broth on the first bite.
The second bite was sprinkled with finely chopped yuzu.
Enjoy the flavor enhanced with the aroma of yuzu.
・制作
Tuna, Squid, Grilled Sabaoth
Especially the tuna is delicious.
・매콤한 무
On its own, it is somewhat firm and spicy.
eaten with scallion toro, it's delicious!
・Green Onion Troll
・Cold scallop with green-tinged vinegar miso
・Fubuki Sushi, Shiso, Ankai
For some reason, the ginger is extremely delicious.
・Ajiaki with small wisteria and eggplant
A flavor that truly warms the body from the core
・Grilled Squid with Hōba Sauce
Otako to Udo no Kin no Hanee
The cooking of the scallops was also excellent.
・Fugu no ara no zasshi
Perfumes (Nama, yam, Nissl)
Golden radish, pickled vegetables
・グレープフルーツゼリー
Peach, chewing gum made from sugar in thread-like shapes
Beautifulness comparable to Western desserts
・Sakura Mochi
・お薄
Total bill: 15,698 yen
■서비스 및 분위기
To encourage the enthusiasm of my disciples, I have given a slightly lower rating. Our restaurant has very strict hierarchical relationships between employees.
Firstly, those who greet customers at the entrance of the restaurant, clean the area in front of the store, or greet guests at the entrance with three fingers—these are people who carry out tasks such as serving food. They are also those who are entrusted with cooking tasks to some extent. At least five of these people work under the head chef, each having a clear role and hierarchical relationship.
And in the lower areas, it seems that one hardly has any chance to even touch the ingredients. That’s why it’s necessary to sharpen one’s senses and gather information through one’s own observations. It’s like the greed or hungriness that ancient craftsmen mentioned—they said that one should be willing to take in everything through sight and hearing. It would be better if one had a bit more of that hungriness.
Why say such things? It's because there were several instances where young chefs couldn't provide satisfactory explanations when asked about the menu items. It may sound harsh, but that's not enough as a professional. Even if one never cooks in the kitchen, it's essential to have a clear understanding and ability to explain the dishes they offer to customers. I believe this is a minimum requirement for being a professional.
Our restaurant follows a traditional training approach. We believe that we invest time in grooming young employees and providing them with proper guidance.
On the other hand, from the impression I got during our last conversation, it seems that the head chef is somewhat troubled by how he trains his young staff. It’s likely that he feels a gap in their common sense compared to today’s younger workers, as well as difficulties in communicating with them.
Additionally, from the counter, there are times when the chef's voice is heard, giving instructions in a somewhat authoritative tone. Considering this, I have slightly downgraded my evaluations of service and atmosphere.
I truly hope that the young disciples can understand the master's thoughts and inspire them to a higher level of consciousness.
■総評
The chef is an extremely skilled professional, a true master of cooking.
Perhaps it is because the chef has a deep connection to tea and flowers. The ability to achieve such a high level of refinement in terms of taste, appearance, and all other aspects—a delicacy that exhibits such meticulous care and finesse—is something I have never experienced before in my life. Honestly, I can only think of words like “astounding” to describe this level of excellence.
The chef, although he has an impressive appearance, is also quite surprising in being able to create dishes that combine such beauty and delicacy.
If you wish to truly understand the essence of Japanese cuisine, then I highly recommend that you visit our restaurant.
In Kyoto City, among the "Japanese cuisine" restaurants that have received 4 or more stars on Yumelog, or those that have earned a ★ rating on Michelin, there are very few places that are open to the general public and still offer authentic Japanese cuisine at prices ranging from around 10,000 yen. I believe there isn’t a single restaurant that offers even more traditional Japanese cuisine than our establishment.
Personally, it's a restaurant I would like to continue visiting for a long time.
Thank you very much for your hospitality ♪
I would definitely like to make a reservation again.
