“Restaurant L'armoise” is a restaurant that adheres to the concept of “local gastronomy,” using 99% local ingredients from Niigata. It has won a Michelin 1-star rating. Located in a residential area, about 10 minutes walk from Nagoya Station, the store is situated on the ground floor of a building. The signboard is hidden inside the building, so it might go unnoticed if you don’t pay attention.
The interior of the restaurant is a calm space that evokes the warmth of traditional craftsmanship. It has an atmosphere that makes one feel as if they are visiting the home of a sensible friend. The reservation system is limited to two couples per day, and the chef takes charge of everything from cooking to serving.
シェフの田中良太郎は、東京のホテルやレストランで経験を積んだ後、27歳の時に当店を開業しました。彼はとても温厚で明るい人柄を持っていますが、ワンオペとは思えないほどの料理の提供タイミングを実現する、実に優秀な人物です。
The pricing for wines is reasonable. Glass-wines generally range around the thousand yen mark, and they are served in generous amounts. It is also possible to propose pairing suggestions using Niigata sake.
At Amuse, we serve Cream of Mushroom Soup and Eclair. The Cream of Mushroom Soup is a concentrated essence of the rich flavors extracted from beef and pork feet over time. It also carries the rich and profound aroma of mushrooms. The saltiness is minimal, allowing the natural flavors of the ingredients to stand out. The Eclair uses Sado-produced Gouda cheese, and the sponge cake, mixed with bamboo charcoal, adds a subtle sweetness. It’s the perfect accompaniment to any drink.
クロメスキ。これはコロッケ状の調理器具であり、カリッとした衣の中には新潟県産和牛がたっぷり入っています。そのジューシーな味わいを、胡桃のソースが柔らかく引き立て、梅の風味が後味に爽やさを残します。ワンオペでこのアミューズが出てくるなんて、本当に素晴らしいですよね？
Autumn anchovy smoked over a fire. The fatty anchovy is preserved through smoking, allowing its rich flavors to be concentrated and enhancing its aromatic aroma. Complemented by flavorful shiitake mushrooms and cauliflower cream, the dish is well-balanced. The use of yuzu from Nagoya also adds a stylish touch.
The bread was also homemade, and I enjoyed three varieties: yomogi bread, aburaage bread, and salted butter bread. By the way, the name of the restaurant is in French, meaning "yomogi," and the chef personally picks the herbs for flavoring the oil. The rosemary used for this purpose is also grown in-house.
This is a French dish called "Benizwayagani with Zukin." The delicate sweetness of the crab and the freshness of the zukin blend perfectly, creating a truly smooth texture. The rich bisque sauce, which captures the umami of crustaceans, further enhances the appetite. The crispy potato chips served alongside add a delicious touch, while the oil from the nine-seed green onions provides a refreshing aroma as an additional accent.
In the crisp and light pie dough dish "Vol·o·Van," there are plenty of Western clam and mushroom. The contrast between the crisp texture of the pie and the flavorful ingredients creates a pleasant experience. The aroma of the sea and the taste of the mushrooms are perfectly balanced. It is said that the filling uses the broth from flying fish, allowing the delicate umami of seafood to spread throughout the dish.
Black abalone risotto. The luxurious black abalone used in this dish exudes an overwhelming presence with its elastic texture and profound umami flavor that intensifies with each bite. The rice is made from "Shinno Sukeru," a renowned brand of rice from New Tokyo. The rich sauce, derived from the abalone liver, perfectly blends with the ingredients to create an unparalleled taste experience. I even wish to eat it with a ladle in a bowl.
Roasted Houbou. The skin is crispy and fragrant, while the meat is tender and juicy after roasting. It successfully captures a delicate yet elegant umami flavor. Accompanying this dish are various distinctive vegetables from Nagoya. This is a vibrant dish that fully showcases the blessings of New Tokai's rich land, filled with vitality.
The main dish is Newthai beef rib meat. It has a pleasant aroma and a mild taste. Combined with the broth-like sauce, it feels like eating a traditional Japanese meat dish. There’s no harshness or sharpness typical of beef dishes; instead, the meat melts smoothly into the palate, offering a truly delicious experience.
For a quick refresh, we recommend the melon shaved ice. This product uses melons with high sugar content from Nagoya, and the rich aroma and juicy sweetness are perfectly captured in the shaved ice.
The main dessert consists of ice cream made from almonds (the fruit of the uwamisuzakura) and a tart made with seasonal ichiduki. The ice cream has a unique, sweet aroma reminiscent of almonds, making it a pleasant experience. The tart contains pony snacks, which add an unexpected crunch to the taste, providing a delightful surprise. A light meringue complements the overall dish, giving it a smooth and harmonious finish.
The tea and snacks were macarons from "Popo". They have a flavor reminiscent of mango and mulberry, with a tropical and rich sweetness as their characteristic feature. We enjoyed them alongside Nagoya's red tea. Thank you for the delicious meal.
The above course menu costs 16,500 yen—an unbelievable cost-effectiveness. This stark contrast highlights how much effort is put into covering rent and labor costs in modern French restaurants in Tokyo.
Putting aside the matter of money, just looking at the food itself is truly amazing. They have established a hyper-seasonal procurement model that ensures local ingredients are available in their best condition, right before they expire. Their streamlined operation structure allows them to fully appreciate the value of these ingredients, and this shows new possibilities for fine dining in the countryside.
Even in a large city, when it is deeply connected to the local environment, a food culture that is truly world-class can flourish. This is something that Chef Ryotaro Tanaka has powerfully proven.
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